This 3D-printed picture frame is intended as a light-weight frame with some versatility in what it contains. By default it’s a two-part snap-together frame with a flat backing piece. You specify the dimensions of the frame — depth and width of the frame sides — and the size of the material you want to put into the frame.
The result can have places to mount magnets (3 by default), or “sawtooth hanger” to support the work on a wire brad or pinhead, or both.
Optionally, you can add a “recess” or punch-through of the backing piece. This can be a container for the artwork, letting the backing piece serve as a “mat” and support to hold the artwork in a centered position. In the images below, I specified an “oval” recess, gave the dimensions of the coin I wanted to display in the frame, and told it to add a “ledge” of 0.6mm. The transparent cover prevents the coin from falling out the front, the ledge keeps it from falling out the back, and you can see both sides, which is often desirable for FLAG artworks which may have artist identifying information on the back.
You can also use a SVG file as input to have a recess of any shape.
I will refer to the two parts as the “frame” and “block”. The outer edges of the block may be shorter than the opening in the back of the frame — their only purpose is to snap in to hold the block in place. The recess, if any, will be the depth you specify.
The model consists of two parts that snap together — a “frame” that goes around the outside, and a “block” that fits into a rectangular hole in the back of the frame and clicks into place. The block may have a hole punched through it so the artwork can be displayed behind, or a recess sized to fit the artwork. The above image shows a frame with a shallow rectangular recess, but other shapes are possible, by providing an SVG file that defines the shape of opening you want.
How to Get This Model
The model is implemented in the OpenSCAD CAD scripting language. You don’t need to know the language to make use of the script — you just have to:
- Download the OpenSCAD client for your computer and install it.
- Download the script file LightPictureFrame.scad from the Github repository.
- You may also want to get the file picture_mat.scad, which lets you create mat boards with various-shaped openings cut in them.
- Open the SCAD file, which should open in the OpenSCAD client.
- Set your custom parameters in the Customizer panel.
Alternatively, you can use the online version of OpenSCAD on the MakerWorld website. Here’s this same project on MakerWorld. Click the Customize button to use their web-based tool to create STL files with your specified options. This doesn’t support using SVG files to define a custom shape for your recess or cutout, but otherwise is functionally the same.
Parameters
OpenSCAD will initially display a default set of parameter values in the Customizer panel (if the panel doesn’t display, you can unhide it from the Windows menu). This lists the customizable parameters of this model, of which there are many, detailed below.
Most of these are number fields that let you type whatever value you want. I try to write the script so if you enter an unreasonable value, you’ll still get a reasonable response. For instance, if you ask for a “recess” too deep for the specified frame depth, the frame depth will increase to accommodate it.
- The Layout field lets you choose what parts of the model to view and export — “Assembly diagram” shows an “exploded” view of all parts as they would be put together, including a stand-in for the art and whatever else you plan to put into the frame. If you render the assembly diagram, it will show the two parts oriented for printing. Otherwise, you can view just the frame alone, or the block alone. These last two options are handy for exporting since you will often print these parts in different colors, which is easier if you generate separate STL files for them.
- Frame dimensions section contains settings for the width and depth of the frame, and the size of its contents. These parameters are illustrated here.
- Frame depth is the minimum depth you want for the frame — it will be deeper if necessary to accommodate the contents.
- Frame width is your desired width for the front of the frame. This also is a minimum — the frame may be made wider than you specify to accommodate the stuff that needs to go inside the frame. The main limiting factor is the presence of round magnet holders, so if you need to, use smaller magnets or choose the option to use magnetic tape.
- Frame overlap is the size of the “lip” that holds the glass and/or artwork in place behind the frame opening.
- Frame inset is the distance the artwork is set back from the front of the frame.
- Content dimensions is the width and height of the hole for the artwork. Typically, it’s the size of said artwork. The actual frame opening will be smaller than this because of the “overlap” specified above.
- Add depth is the thickness you want to allow for the artwork and other material that might go into the frame — matting, glass, …
- Add sawtooth hanger selects whether the frame should have a zigzaggy piece for hanging the frame from a nail or pin. The Hanger tooth spacing setting lets you set the size and spacing of the points.
- Recessed artwork section lets you define a punch-through or cubbyhole in the block part. This gives options for how to include the artwork — you can use the block as a mat and put the artwork in a shallow cup, with glass in front of it to hold it in position without adhesives (as illustrated at the top of this post). You can make a holder for a dimensional object with a ledge behind to hold it in place (as I did for the coin above). Or you can just make a cutout so part of the back of the artwork is visible.
- The recess shape selects the size of the opening you want to create — rectangular, oval, or custom. A custom opening uses an SVG file to specify the desired shape of the opening.
- Recess depth is the depth of the cup you want to create.
- Recess ledge is the size of the lip around the edge of the recess to hold the work in place from behind. By default it’s large, resulting in no opening at the back of the recess. If it’s zero, you just make a hole in the block, which is a good choice if you just want to make a window to see the back of the artwork. For the coin frame above, I entered 0.6mm here — enough to keep the coin in place without covering much of its edge.
- Recess size is the width and height of the cubby or cutout. If you choose the “custom” shape, your SVG file will be resized to these dimensions and centered in the area.
- Recess svg filename is the name of an SVG file, which you can create using a vector editing tool such as Inkscape (free!). Sorry there’s no Browse button, you just have to enter the full filepath. You can use a relative filepath if the file is in the same folder as the script file. The file should contain one path entity, which will be resized to the specified recess size dimensions. This may change its aspect ratio.
- Magnet posts section lets you choose whether you will have magnets, and if so what type (little cylinders or pieces of magnavinyl). Magnets always go on the frame, not the block, to avoid pulling the block out of the frame.
- Posts for magnets lets you choose to have 3 round magnets, 4 round magnets, platforms for magnet tape, or no magnets. If you choose 4 magnets, they go in the corners of the frame. If you choose 3 magnets, the script will try to place two on corners and one in the middle of the opposite side, but if the frame is too narrow, it’ll put them all in corners. The platforms, if you choose that, are in the corners.
- Round magnet hole size gives the dimensions of the cup to hold your magnets — diameter and depth. You will have to glue the magnets in, so enter a diameter enough larger than that of the actual magnets to avoid any risk the magnet won’t fit.
Printing Considerations
The frame component should print with no trouble in its default configuration generated by this script. The block component, if it has a recess, will need supports because there’s no orientation that doesn’t have overhangs. The question is whether to print face-up or face-down, or some other way.
Generally, face-down will use less material and be easier to remove the support material from. In this orientation, only the ledge or back of the recess will require support. “Organic” style supports are generally easiest to remove. The back of the recess might not be beautiful in that case, but we’re expecting it will be covered by the artwork.
The script will decide on an orientation based on the amount of surface that needs support, but feel free to override that by flipping the part in your slicer program.
Assembling the Frame
Line everything up right and it should just snap together. If you’ve opted to have a sawtooth hanger, there will be two of these, one on a long side and one on a short side. Make one of those sides the “top” and align the artwork accordingly.
If you haven’t chosen to use the sawtooth hanger, choose a side to be the top that has magnets on two corners, if possible. This will give better sticktiveness.
Design notes
I wanted to make this light-weight both to save on material, and reduce printing time. Of course, sturdiness is also a consideration. This could be scaled up for larger works, if you also increase the wall thickness and use larger magnets. The teeth of the sawtooth hanger would also need to be enlarged if they need to accommodate larger nails to support more weight.